I am known in my circle for having a list or spreadsheet for everything! I have a spreadsheet checklist for my bulk pantry items, a spreadsheet with recipes and ingredients for making freezer meals, a shopping list, house cleaning lists, garden lists, a project list… I even have an app on my phone specifically for lists that I want always with me! One of my favorite lists is the list of things we “need” for The Country Gardens – such a great one to just look at over a cup of coffee.
Late last summer, Bonnie and I started to prioritize that list and the number one priority was a permanent growing structure in the Hazelton garden! YEAH! WOOHOO! SWEET!
I have lusted over Bonnie’s front porch where she starts our seedlings and her big greenhouse that grew our amazing tomatoes last year. My temporary hoop house worked in the spring to get us some great early veggies but I spent hours repairing wind damage and sleepless nights peering out my window wondering if it would survive the night. A sturdy structure – a dream come true!
Why did a physical structure beat out dripline irrigation, better tillage equipment, permanent washing stations and automated harvesting equipment? All of these items would make our labors in the garden significantly easier – A permanent structure minimizes our risk and gives us more flexibility in providing our CSA members with diversity early in the season and late in the season. That is something that no amount of extra work can accomplish without the unique environment that season extension structures can provide.
The first zucchinis, cucumbers, carrots, cilantro, peppers and tomatoes in our CSA shares all come out of some sort of season extension system. The same is true of the diversity that we protect from cool and freezing temperatures on the other end of the season. This can be as simple as row cover that lets sun through but keeps temperatures about 4 degrees warmer than outside temperature. The difference seems small but a big deal when nighttime temperatures dip to the 30’s. Simple plastic row covers using PVC structures heat up the growing climate in the spring to push early growth allowing plants to be flowering by early May and in fruit production by June. The true greenhouse with full ability to heat and cool and with lights to hit optimum day length is the Holy Grail of controlling climate to produce food.
We aren’t in need of the Holy Grail. We just need a place that we can walk into in the spring and be greeted by calm winds and 80 degree temps. This gives us all we need to extend the Idaho growing season while exploring new ways to expand our production and push the limits. Right before Christmas, we toured a structure where carrots and spinach were still in full production. No artificial heat, no grow lights and fresh homegrown veggies on the table at Christmas dinner!
So, we went to the catalogs and internet to pick out the perfect structure. Quickly over-whelmed by all of the options we gave up and sought help from a local couple who have been perfecting a structure that can withstand our spring windstorms but not break the bank. Right now they are working on designing us a custom base structure that our men can install and complete!!!
It will not be fancy but a simple design that we can upgrade if/when our needs change. Here is a look at how the 2015 temporary structure and 2016 permanent structure stack up:
PVC spans Steel spans
Greenhouse plastic anchored with dirt Greenhouse plastic anchored with wiggle wire system
Climb in access Real doors
Rope and digger link anchors Steel anchors
Less than 5’ high at center 7’+ high at center
No base walls Pressurized wood base walls
Greenhouses are one of my favorite places to spend an hour or five. A favorite drink and freedom to walk in a warm green place is good for my soul. Stay tuned for picture and updates of our progress.
Goal: Planting ready by March 1!!!
This year Krista had the brilliant idea to divide and conquer seed/variety selection. This allowed each of us to focus on the crops that we may have more expertise in or enjoy growing more than others. Or we allow the other person to select the varieties for a crop that we like a lot in an effort to not end up with 18 varieties (like the 2015 tomato production or Krista’s cucumber selections). When looking through 5 or 6 catalogs to compare varieties, prices, etc, any simplification is appreciated.
I felt really good like I was getting this task accomplished after quickly selecting broccoli, cauliflower and carrot varieties with little difficulty. Cucumbers also should have been simple: early variety, slicing variety, pickling variety. But, I came across a variety in the Rare Seed catalog from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds that sent me on a tangent. There were a few terms in the description that I didn’t recognize and didn’t require a pollinator to set fruit. Well, this sounded like great news so I started doing some research.
Quick biology lesson. Plants have male and female flowers (of course there are exceptions). The male flowers produce pollen, die, shrivel and fall off of the plant. The female flowers receive the pollen and then produce fruit which contains the seeds (plant babies).
Most cucumbers naturally have female and male flowers (monoecious) on each plant. This way the plant can pollinate itself. Usually the first flowers are male followed by any combination of male and female flowers. The crazy thing is that it is usually the same flower pattern of male and female flowers on each vine of the plant. However, most plants tend to be heavily male. It can be as much as 70% male flowers to 30% female flower. This drastically reduces yields as there are few flowers left on the plant to produce cucumbers.
Another crazy thing… the sex of cucumbers is inherited but environmental factors can have an effect on how that is expressed. What does this mean? For cucumbers this means that higher temperatures and longer days can increase the chance of more male flowers while lower temps and shorter days favor more female flowers. This occurrence is due to changing hormone levels within the plant.
Over the years plant breeders have developed varieties that are primarily female flowers (seriously, one male flower can pollinate A LOT of flowers). But you also need a good crew of pollinators to move the pollen from flower to flower. Bees are the primary pollinator for cucumbers. So their absence is often to blame when issues arise. Inadequate pollen can result in under developed and misshapen cucumbers. Or no cucumbers at all.
Parthenocarpic is the term that started my research. Parthenocarpic cucumbers can produce fruit without any pollination. How does that work? Turns out it’s a genetic disorder that is pretty favorable for at least one reasons we would all probably agree on. Seedless fruit: including oranges, grapes and cucumbers. (There are other reasons for seedless fruit but that can wait for another day). So great news, we can all just plant parthenocarpic cucumbers and we bypass all of the issues previously discussed. Sounds good.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t work quite that easily. If parthenocarpic cucumbers get pollinated it can cause seeded cucumbers and misshapen fruit. This can also result in decreased growth and halt further flowering. So this production method is probably not the end all solution after a season of poor yielding cucumbers. It is highly specialized requiring a greenhouse or other enclosure to keep bees (and other pollinators) out. I do appreciate the effort because I love those long English cucumbers individually wrapped (most likely parthenocarpic).
*After reading all of this about parthenocarpy, I noticed that a large percentage of varieties in the seed catalogs are parthenocarpic. So, while the literature says it is specialized blah blah blah, my best advice is to try a couple plants. You never know how things will grow in your area unless you try. Plus, if you aren’t growing for market, who cares if the cucumbers grow crooked.
So how do we choose and grow cucumbers? For many people who have never had issues growing cucumbers all of this might seem irrelevant, but one bad year (especially for market growers) and we need to figure out what’s going on. We know that it is a favorite in our shares the whole season. What is our answer to growing a successful crop of cucumbers?
So, now I know a lot more about cucumbers. This information will get added to the current list of criteria that I use to make selections. I look for early, commonly known, pickling, slicing, yield, cold tolerant (it’s always a plus if you find varieties that were bred for northern/short season climates), growth habit, disease resistant (luckily we don’t have to worry too much about disease with Idaho’s dry climate), drought/stress tolerant, and most importantly something new and fun. This may seem overwhelming but remember there is no “one size fits all”. That’s why I ended up with the following 5 varieties for 2016:
More science stuff…
Monoecious: female and male flowers on the same plant
Gynoecious: only female flowers on the plant
Parthenocarpic: genetic mutation in which female flowers produce fruit without pollination
Cucumbers are in the same plant family as watermelons (Cucerbitacea), so much of the information can also be applied to growing watermelons.
Most of this information came from World Vegetables (a college text book that is frequently referenced at my house).
Also check out http://masteringhorticulture.blogspot.com/.